Attari-Wagah Border Parade

 

(At the entrance of Attari-Wagah Border)

First things first. In India the border is called Attari. Attari is a village in India and Wagah is a village in Pakistan. In 2007, Indian Government changed the name of the Indian side of the border to Attari on the recommendation of the Punjab Government. Then why I titled this post “Wagah” and not Attari, obviously since not many people know about it, not many will google it. But once you have reached my blog post, your knowledge bank will enhance immediately. 😊

So, we reached Amritsar on our way back from Dalhousie and Dharamshala, and our taxi driver took us straight to Attari Border for us to experience something we have never done before. Attari border is situated at a distance of around 30km from amritsar. Since 1959 India and Pakistan has been observing this daily lowering of the flag practice through Border Security Forces at Indian side and Pakistan Rangers at Pakistan Side. The retreat ceremony has emerged as a major tourist attraction over the years. As per Punjab Government officials, around 15000 people attend the ceremony on daily basis and the number reach upto 50000 during Independence Day and Republic Day. 

Given the large no. of audience that visit the border to witness the retreat ceremony, its very difficult to make it to the front row, so our driver took us the site well in advance, we reached there around 02:30 pm. In summers the ceremony starts around 05:15pm and in winters around 04:15pm.

Outside the entrance to the border, the government has set up a plaza with facilities of food joints, souvenir shops and a mini park with swings for kids. No matter how early you reach the site, if you don’t have the appetite to wait in the queue in scorching heat you will end up entering the border in last, like the lazy us did. (But my resourceful husband still got us a pretty good spot at the ceremony). Despite the heat and long queue the National Spirit is high, you could hear the crowd shouting, Bharat Mata Ki Jai, Hindustan Zindabad.

(Queue outside the entrance of Attari Border. Its probably only 1/10^th of the queue length)

(The Lazy couple waiting for the queue to shorten, it was only after a BSF Jawan literally pushed us out that we joined the queue)

Entry to the Attari border is a full security procedure, you are scanned twice through metal detector. There is jammer so you won’t find any network inside the entrance gate. From where the queue starts to the spectators gallery from where you watch the ceremony, it’s a walk of at least a kilometer or two. The majestic “Swarna Jayanti Dwar” welcomes you to the entrance of Attari-Wagha Border.

(Swarna Jawanti Dwar; Entrance gate to the spectators gallery at Attari-Wagha Border)

(A view of Attari-Wagha Border from spectators gallery)

The U-shaped gallery, is 32 metres high, equivalent to a nine-floor building, with 22 domes constructed atop to give it a heritage look. It can accommodate more than 25000 people. The Pakistan’s spectators gallery is small with a capacity of only 5000.  

(A view of spectators gallery)

Large Sound systems are installed along with LEDs for all to witness the ceremony in full clarity. Once you are comfortably settled down on the stairs for the ceremony to begin, you are first welcomed with some great patriotic hindi Bollywood music in top volume. Then comes one handsome BSF Jawan raising slogans of Hindustan Zindabad, Vande Matram, Bharat Mata Ki JAi, so loud, so energetic, so patriotic the whole crowd is suddenly filled with energy. If I try to explain to you what this retreat ceremony is all about, it is a daily practice that is being followed by both the countries since 1959, wherein in the evening both the countries engage in a 30 minutes display of military camaraderie and showmanship to flaunt their military power with military personals marching past along the road to the border gate stomping their feet with full impact, patriotic music and slogans are played on both the sides of the border. Military personnel on both sides of the border are colorfully dressed following the customs of their respective countries, on the Indian Side women and girls are given a chance to run towards the border gates holding the Indian Flags and to dance to the patriotic music, at the end of the ceremony both the countries respectfully lower their flags and the international border is closed.

The goosebumps this level of energy and patriotism gives you can’t be written or read; you have to see it to experience it. So here are some videos for you to watch and enjoy.

 

On two immediate trips we have been so close to India Pakistan border, 1^st at Attari and 2^nd at Jaisalmer. You can read about that experience here https://blabbertour.blogspot.com/2020/05/jaisalmer.html .